You dream of colorful hair? But you don’t really know which shades are trendy and how they are dyed at all? Then you have come to the right place! We asked top colorist Shadi Shoaei from Salon Sevensenses in Hamburg for advice. Last year the colorist won the “German Hairdressing Award” in the category “Colour Technician”. So she knows what she is talking about. Here are her tips.
These hairstyles are trend
Which bright hair colours are trendy?
Pink, blue, green or all at once: never before has coloured hair been seen so often on the street. “It’s not new. The trend is rather that it has become socially acceptable to wear gaudy hair color. People dare more. In the past, whoever had colorful hair was a punk, today it’s completely normal,” says Shadi Shoaei in an interview and adds: “It all started with the Chanel Resort Collection 2013.
After Karl Lagerfeld sent his models with colorful hair across the catwalk, pastel colors suddenly appeared in fashion magazines. By now, colorful hair colors are everywhere: on covers, advertising posters and especially on Instagram. Thanks to the social network, trends are spreading much faster than before, which means that more and more women are coming to the salon with a desire for an unusual hair color. These colors are in high demand right now:
Soft pastel tones
Pastel colours continue to be particularly popular. However, if you want to dip your hair in a watercolour pink, baby blue or light yellow, you must bear in mind that the background for this should be as blond as possible. “Pastel shades are like watercolour paint. So soft that a white-blonde base is necessary for them to be visible at all.”
Bright Rainbow Hair
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If you search for trendy hair colors on Instagram or Pinterest, you will definitely come across #rainbowhair. These are many colourful strands in rainbow colours. “A trend that looks really great in a photo. Unfortunately, it’s nothing for everyday use,” says Shadi Shoaei and explains: “Instagram hairdressers do a lot for the moment. What we don’t see online is how the color washes out – at different speeds. The pink washes out first, then the yellow.
Blue stays in the hair the longest.” So, theoretically, you’d have to have your hair color refreshed every two weeks. You can’t do this at home – it’s time-consuming and expensive.
Soft pink for soft effects
“When it comes to bright colors, most of my customers want pink hair,” says the color expert. “I think it’s because pink is the softest and most wearable – and has a really nice finish: Even if the color washes out, it still looks great, because the tone simply gets paler and powdery before it finally washes out completely” Important: To make sure that the hair is really pale pink and not coral or even peach, the starting color should be white-blond if possible.
Bright coral nuances
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The perfect variant for all those who want colourful hair but do not want to bleach their hair white blond in advance is a coral or peach blond. “This also works with a gold or honey blonde base, because the color has a yellow component anyway.”
Peek-a-boos for eye-catching effects
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It takes courage to dye all your hair a colourful colour. And even if it’s just the lace or a few strands, in some jobs it just doesn’t fit the dress code. But then you don’t have to do without colourful hair either. “This is what is made possible by the so-called peek-a-boo. Only a broad strand of hair – for example at the back of the head – is colored, which can be covered in everyday life with open hair and ponytail,” explains the colorist.
The colourful part is then made visible with a half-bun.
Even more trend hair colours
Which colourful hair colour suits whom?
Your complexion is the most important factor in determining this. “If the coloration does not match your skin color, you will soon look tired and pale. A granny grey can also make you look older. Old pink, pink or peach tones, on the other hand, act as a wake-up call and suit almost everyone,” says Shadi Shoaei. But the expert also knows that the color has to match not only the skin but also the personality. It is therefore difficult to make sweeping statements.
“Sea blue, turquoise, neon yellow, bright orange, purple or green, for example, are more extreme nuances that are less about naturalness than about a look. Paired with a great haircut and the right make-up, these are real eye-catching colours.” So the question is whether to wear a flattering pastel shade or an eye-catching nuance.
Do I have to lighten my natural hair colour before colouring?
In principle, the lighter the base, the more clearly the colour will be visible later. To explain this, Shadi Shoaei likes to compare the hair with a piece of paper and the colour with a highlighter. “If you paint with neon pink over a pure white sheet of paper, the color really glows. If you use recycled paper, it always looks a bit dirty. The color doesn’t glow, you can’t see its full glory. And the same goes for hair color.”
So you usually need a light background. But blonding is not necessarily necessary. “It is also possible to get the hair lighter with colour. However, this only works if the natural tone is already blond. The result will always be a bit golden with color.” The problem is that gold is similar to yellow and that’s what affects the end result. “Gold blonde is no problem if you want to tone the hair into a peach afterwards.
Blue is also possible, but then it tends to become petrol, because blue and yellow are known to produce green. For copper reds or a bright orange, a golden background can even be an advantage because they shine even more intensely,” reveals the color expert.
Pastel shades, on the other hand, only work on white blonde hair. To get white-blonde hair, a professional must bleach. Shadi Shoaei explains: “Every pastel shade consists of two components: The color and white. If the background has a yellow tinge, it’s like stirring in a shot of yellow paint. Pink then tends to become coral”. Also pretty, but stupid, if delicate pastel pink was desired.
Gently lighten hair
Which colours also work on darker hair?
“For blue and green, the hair doesn’t have to be very blond. A red, orange or copper can also simply be dyed. But the same applies here: the lighter the background, the more intensive the colour result later. The expert recommends: “With dark hair, it is best to have light tips or strands of hair that are matched to the haircut. That way, not all the hair has to be lightened.”
What is the difference between direct drawing and coloring?
Conventional colorations contain hydrogen peroxide. The substance swells the hair, causing the coloration to penetrate into the hair. The final colour develops only through a chemical process during the application time. The expert explains: “Direct pullers, on the other hand, are finished colorants. This means that they already have their final color and do not have to penetrate the hair by a chemical reaction like oxidative hair colors and develop inside the hair.
Instead, they function purely physically. Because direct pullers are positively charged, they are attracted to our negatively charged hairs and adhere to the outside of the cuticle layer.
Is it possible to colour the hair permanently?
“It’s all right. However, in my opinion, direct pullers are the better and more hair-friendly option. Because colorful pigments generally wash out of the hair quickly – whether dyed or tinted,” says Shoaei. So regular refreshing is necessary anyway.
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How do I get rid of colorful hair color?
Satisfied with the color? Or do you want a new tone, but the colour just won’t wash out? “Then you can help yourself at home with a deep cleansing shampoo. If that doesn’t help, I would recommend a visit to the hairdresser. In the salon we have a few secret tricks, but they belong in professional hands – because they can ruin your hair if used incorrectly. I would advise against using household remedies from the net for exactly this reason,” says the expert.
If all else fails, the hairdresser can perform a blonde wash. This doesn’t put as much strain on the hair as a proper bleaching, but is usually enough to remove the color completely.
The best home remedies for beautiful hair
How does the colour stay beautiful for a long time?
“Colored hair is a hobby. They do not leave the salon and look great for weeks. They have to come back regularly and do their homework,” says colorist Shadi Shoaei. “I recommend using a conditioner with matching pigments with every wash. That way you can add back the color you washed out through the shampoo.” If you do it this way, you can enjoy brightly colored hair for up to 4 weeks, then it’s time to re-color.
Because after a month so much colour has usually been rinsed out that the conditioner no longer has enough power to catch it. Talking of which: the greatest enemy of colorful hair is constant washing. Because the pigments wash out over time. Therefore, if possible, delay hair washing a little bit and trick with dry shampoo in between.
Dry shampoos in test
What exactly are colour conditioners?
These are rinses, with direct-acting colour pigments. The conditioners are available ready to buy, but only in standard colours from blond to brown. “For colored hair, we can mix them in the salon and match the color exactly. For old pink I mix beige and pink. You can get Peach with pink and yellow,” reveals the expert.
Can I colour my hair myself?
With the range of bright hair colours on offer in the drugstore, this is naturally tempting. It’s relatively easy and safe to experiment with hair chalks, colourful sprays and hair make-up. These products are designed to rinse out the hair after 1-2 washes. You can use them to colour a dip dye or a few colourful strands of hair, for example. How it works is explained in the next point.
However, the expert advises caution: “Sometimes the colour lasts much longer than specified. This happens especially when the hair is already stressed and the pigments therefore penetrate deeper into the hair. Then the pigments can sometimes stick so tightly that you can only get them out by bleaching. Caution is especially important with blue or green colors.” They also run the risk of staining your hair at home.
If the tips are very damaged, they take on the colour much more intensively than the roots. There’s no warning of this at the drugstore…
Dye hair like a professional
DIY -Hair dyeing instructions for coloured hair
The expert recommends that coloured hair should be dyed better by a professional. Self-experiments can be a real pain in the ass. But if you still want to avoid an expensive visit to the hairdresser, we can of course understand that. That’s why we have researched a few tips for you and compiled them here:
1. Instruction: Colourful Dip-Dye self-colouring
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Gradients always look easy, but are unfortunately relatively tricky. We therefore recommend: Dip Dye instead. Only the tips are dipped in colour. That is really easy. The casual look thrives on the fact that everything is not applied too perfectly. That’s the way to do it:
- First, backcomb the approaches. Because individual strands are pushed further upwards in this way, there are no hard edges later.
- Then apply the colourful tint with the fingers or a brush only to the tips of the hair.
- Blur the transitions from undyed to colored hair with your fingers by gently stroking the color upwards.
2. instruction: colouring coloured strands yourself
Coloured strands are still a mega-trend. Those who want to do it themselves with hair make-up usually need blonde hair. If you have dark hair, have your hair lightened in advance. But you should definitely not try this yourself. It looks especially cool if the strands shine through from below and are not placed directly in the top hair. That’s the way to do it:
- Divide the hair on the top of the head and tie it into a half-bun
- Now take out with the fingers single strands of about 1cm width
- About halfway down, start to apply the paint towards the bottom. Works best by applying the colour cream to your fingers and pulling the strand through between your fingers.
- Finally – without adding new coloration – smear the color upwards to avoid hard edges.
- Color as many strands as you want.
Don’t worry: If not all strands are the same length and thickness, the colour will only look cooler.
Conclusion: A visit to the hairdresser is the safe choice
Yeah, it’s sobering. But if you dream of hair in pastel or a colorful ombré, you’d better go to a hairdresser. Even though it looks so simple and the choice of DIY -The reason is that if the coloration is large, a lot of things can go wrong. However, if you want to colour the tips or a few strands of hair just for a special occasion, you can also try the new hair make-ups at home. The danger of something going wrong is therefore low.