Recently an insider tip from beauty bloggers and skin care experts, chemical peelings for home use can now be found in the bathroom of many of us. But are acid peelings really so good that everyone really has to have one? We took a look at what these supposed secret weapons can do and talked to Afrula Repas, skin care expert from Paula’s Choice about the skincare hype.
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What are acid scrubs and how do they work?
Acid peelings are also known as chemical peelings. Whatever you call them, it sounds like a pretty harsh chemical peel that you don’t want to let on your facial skin. But you thought wrong! Acid peelings are the gentle, but all the more effective counterpart to mechanical scrub peelings. Facial care products with a mechanical scrub effect, for example with tiny particles of microplastics or ground apricot kernels, loosen dry and horny skin areas through friction.
This can feel good at first, but in the worst case it can lead to minor injuries of the sensitive facial skin. Chemical exfoliant peelings, on the other hand, work with acids that stimulate our skin’s own renewal processes – very gently, without aggressive rubbing.
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For whom are chemical peelings suitable?
“For those who want to maintain a healthy and young skin. For all who have problems with impure, oily or dry skin. And for everyone with pimples or even sensitive skin with inflammation. Chemical peels are really something for every skin type,” explains product expert Afrula Repas from the skin care brand Paula’s Choice. The texture depends on the respective skin type: peeling lotions are suitable for dry skin, gels for combination skin and liquid textures for combination to oily skin.
The great thing about acid peelings is that the skin is freed from old skin flakes and can therefore optimally absorb the active ingredients from the subsequent care.
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Which acid peeling is right for my skin?
First of all, between AHA – and BHA -peelings. AHA stands for alpha hydroxy acid (glycolic acid), BHA for beta-hydroxy acid (salicylic acid). AHA and BHA have different effects and are therefore also suitable for different skin types and problems.
- How it works AHA -peelings:
The glycolic acid AHA alleviates signs of aging and stimulates skin renewal. Peelings with this are suitable for uncomplicated to dry skin and are recommended for sun damage and as an anti-aging agent.
- How it works BHA -peelings:
The salicylic acid BHA on the other hand dissolves cornifications, dead skin cells and clears the pores lastingly. This mild acid is therefore suitable for oily to combination skin with impurities such as pimples or blackheads. But also for sensitive skin with rosacea or similar problems BHA -peelings suitable.
Are peelings at the dermatologist more effective?
Professional fruit acid peelings at the dermatologist are characterized by a significantly higher acid concentration and a lower pH value. This makes them even more effective, but they must also be neutralized and thus stopped after a few minutes, otherwise they may even cause skin damage. There should also be breaks of 1 to 4 weeks between the individual appointments. Acid peelings for home use, on the other hand, are milder in formulation and can even be used daily.
What should be considered with chemical peelings?
“The effect of our peelings is achieved within a few hours, so it is important that they are not washed off,” explains Afrula Repas. Before exfoliating, cleanse your face thoroughly with a cleanser and, if necessary, a tonic. Liquid peelings are applied with a soaked cotton pad, gels and lotions are simply applied directly to the skin. As acid peelings make the skin more sensitive to light, you should definitely apply sunscreen every day.
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How often should you use an acid peel?
“It varies from skin to skin,” says Afrula Repas. “Basically, our peelings are formulated for daily use. But there are people with very sensitive skin who cannot tolerate such frequent application. Here it takes a lot of trial and error to find the right dosage for you”. So start by peeling every 2-3 days and observe how your skin reacts.
A slight tingling or tickling sensation immediately after application is normal; if it persists, you may not tolerate either the product or the frequency of use.
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Let’s do acid scrubs!
Those who have not yet dared to approach the chemical power bombs are now hopefully convinced. We, for one, have no intention of going back to our BHA – and AHA -favourites, which provide for clear skin and above all much, much glow! But attention: Do not forget sun protection!